Coober pedy is translated from the local aborigine peoples translate as 'white man in a whole'. It is where 90% of Australian opal is mined. Australia is the largest exporter of Opal in the world, so if you're wearing opals chances are they came from a mine around here (or there, i guess). For anyone interested, currently the largest markets for bulk opal sales are (in order), China, India, Germany, and Russia. Opals are sold in three different ways, solids, doubles and triplets. The solids are exactly as they sound. They are solid opal and cost the most to buy, doubles have two layers (see? Very simple), the top layer is the opal and the second layer is dark backing (brings the price of jewellery down). The last type is called a triplet, and has three layers. The first layer is the black backing, followed by the opal (this time a sliver), and topped with a layer of clear quartz. You can tell a triplet is a triplet if there is a clear bubble on top of the jewellery. This is the cheapest way to make opal jewellery essentially because you are buying only 1mm of opal (compared to a solid opal which can be much much bigger!). As our Vietnam tour guide, Phat, would say "You get what you Pay for". To mine opal, miners first go prospecting.
The first thing a prospector does is look for a fault line. (The fault lines were created by a series of earth quakes a ba-zillion years ago). To find a fault line they essentially walk through the desert with two metal rods held in parallel lines. When the rods open that signals the beginning of the fault line. Once they've found the beginning, they continue walking (ideally through the fault line until the medal rods criss cross. This marks the end of the fault line. (Nota Bena: I can't remember if the crisscross is the beginning or the end of the faultline, so what I just said could be backwards). Once they've found the area where the fault line is they drill a 20cm by 10-15m whole to bring up the rock, sediment, and sandstone. The opal will be in the sandstone, if there is opal, and enough of it, the prospector turns into a minor and digs a bigger whole (this time 1 m wide) and goes down to inspect their potential opal score. They take a black light with them because opals glow under a black light. (Apparently this is the allure of opals in the Indian market, they glow in the nightclub, and also a way of telling whether an opal is real or fake). Oh yah, and the opal will be in the sandstone. If the miner decides that he (or she) wants to get at the opal they have two options. One, they use tunnelling machine to make a bigger whole (to become a mine). A very strong electric vacuum cleaner helps get rid of the earth (which makes those mounds of soil all over Coober Pedy). The second option (for those who can't afford the tunnelling machines), use homemade bombs and up to 1000 per day. Traditionally the miners wives would make the bombs at night, for the miners to take with them the next day (along with their lunch, it also explains the love divorce rate in CP, a short fuses are easy to make.....). The bombs used to cost 9 cents per bomb, but now due to new rules and regulations post 9-11, the materials needed for the sticks cost 9 dollars and require seven different licenses, meaning that the price of opals with increase and the 'little' opal guys are out of business. All the bombs are lit by hand. The bomb lighters follow three basic rules, 1)once lit, either leave, or turn on the vacuum cleaner (and walk about 7m away from the bomb), if you stay 2) open your mouth and put your hands over your ears (to be protected from the shock waves), 3) count the explosions. If they plant 10 bombs, they have to make sure they all go off. If they don't they have to go find them....... Once the mine is made the miner takes their black light and hand chisels every single opal out of the sandstone, then they are cleaned, sorted and sold. In Coober Pedy, there are 2.5 million prospector wholes of varying sizes. Tourist apparently fall into them while walking backwards taking pictures. There are tourist caution signs all over town advising everyone to watch out.
From the information provided above, one can probably guess that we went on an Opal mine tour while visiting Coober Pedy, a pretty desolate town 680 km south of Alice Springs. Coober Pedy is also known for their unique style of living. Underground. Why you say? Because underground the temperature stays at 23 degrees all year round (where as outside, in summer the mercury rises to 50 degrees C, and winter nights can go below freezing!). So underground is the best option (not to mention the savings on air conditioning). The first underground homes where old mining shafts, but now they are specifically dug to the specifications of the home owner. It's a pretty cool idea, but the only problem with underground homes is that the curb appeal is lacking. As my trust Lonely Plant book describes it, " with swarms of flies, no trees, ... cave dwelling locals and rusty car wrecks in every second front yard, you might think you've arrived in a post-apocalyptic hell hole" But the locals are friendly, from all over the world (literally, Germany, Scotland, Sri Lanka, Croatia, Italy,etc). Thereare also a Serbian Orthodox Underground Church, and underground Catholic Church and I think a protestant church (but I am not sure if it was underground). It also drives home the aborigine translation of the town's name. They really are white men in holes (whether working, or living in them).
When we arrived in Coober Pedy (and after taking the MUST picture of the town sign), we went to find a place to stay the night. We ended up at a place called Redeka's underground hostal were we got a room 6.5m below ground. It was really like a cave / bunker style and slightly creepy. I had to remind myself that this was just like sleeping in a basement sans windows or natural light, but it was still kind of creepy. In the morning we actually woke up with some of the ceiling minerals on top of the covers.....and it was cold and damp night. I am assuming the proper homes of the locals have a bit better ventilation, the church we visited did . But it was an experience, right? The toilets were alright, although 6 toilets for more than 40 people meant that there were lots of traffic jams. The guy at the reception reminded me of an old country hill billy complete with proper outback rimmed hat and a long straggly salt and pepper beard and white tank top (called a singlet here). There was also a giant winch, which was really pretty at sunset. Also, the giant wench sits atop one of the highest points in CP where you can see the whole town, plus the vast-ness of living in the middle of the outback. CP is also home to the Outback drive in, which coincidently was playing a film the night we were there. It was the facebook movie "The Social Network". Best outback big screen in the outback.
We left Coober Pedy bright and early Sunday morning (along with all out food in the Hostel fridge). Woops.
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